The Chris Cross Quilts Beginner's Reference Guide
Welcome to the Chris Cross Quilts Beginner's Reference Guide. Whether you're trying to decipher quilting abbreviations, understand sewing machine parts, choose the right needle, or figure out why quilters have strong opinions about thread, you'll find the answers here.
Sewing & Quilting Dictionary
Because nobody hands you a translator when you start sewing.
Last Updated: October 2026
A
Appliqué
The process of sewing one piece of fabric onto another to create a design. Can be done by machine, hand, or by sacrificing your patience entirely.
Acrylic Ruler
A clear ruler used for accurate cutting. Also known as the object that mysteriously disappears when you need it most.
Aurifil
A popular thread brand loved by quilters. Mentioning it online may start a thread debate.
B
Backing
The fabric on the back of a quilt. The side nobody notices until you accidentally sew it on upside down.
Basting
Temporary stitching, pinning, spraying, or otherwise convincing three layers of a quilt to stay together.
Batting
The middle layer of a quilt that provides warmth and softness.
Bias
Fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain. Stretchier than regular fabric and significantly more likely to test your patience.
Binding
The fabric strip that finishes the edges of a quilt. Often the point where people realize they are almost done.
BOM (Block of the Month)
A program where a new quilt block is released monthly. Frequently results in twelve months of excitement followed by six months of procrastination.
Border
Fabric added around the outside edge of a quilt.
Bobbin
A tiny spool that somehow controls your emotional well-being.
C
Chain Piecing
Sewing multiple pieces continuously without cutting thread between them. Quilter efficiency at its finest.
Charm Pack
A bundle of 5" fabric squares from a fabric collection. Quilter potato chips—you rarely stop at one.
Clapper
A woodworking tool borrowed by quilters to create crisp seams. Proof that sewing and carpentry occasionally collaborate.
Colorway
The specific color palette used in a fabric collection or project.
Cornerstones
Small squares placed where sashings intersect.
Crosshatch Quilting
A quilting design consisting of intersecting straight lines.
Cutting Mat
The self-healing surface beneath your fabric. Usually covered in threads, rulers, and at least one thing you were looking for yesterday.
D
Ditch Quilting
Quilting directly in the seam line. Sounds easy. Is not.
Dresden Plate
A traditional quilt block resembling a flower made from wedges.
Drunkard's Path
A curved quilt block pattern. Named after the person who probably designed it.
E
EPP (English Paper Piecing)
A hand-sewing technique using paper templates.
Ease
Extra fullness used to fit one piece of fabric into another.
Echo Quilting
Quilting lines stitched around a shape at equal distances.
F
Fat Eighth
A fabric cut measuring approximately 9" x 21".
Fat Quarter (FQ)
A quarter-yard cut measuring approximately 18" x 21". The gateway drug of quilting.
Feed Dogs
The little teeth under your presser foot that move fabric through the machine.
FMQ
Free Motion Quilting.
Frog/Frogging
Removing stitches. Rip it. Rip it. Get it?
Fusible Interfacing
Material that adds structure and stability when ironed onto fabric.
G
Grain
The direction of threads woven into fabric.
Granny Square Quilt Block
A quilt block inspired by crocheted granny squares.
H
Half-Square Triangle (HST)
One of the most common quilt units. Responsible for approximately half the world's trimming.
Hand Quilting
Quilting performed by hand with a needle and thread.
Hanging Sleeve
A fabric tube attached to the back of a quilt for display.
I
Interfacing
A stabilizing material used in bags, garments, and some quilt projects.
Island Batik
A fabric manufacturer known for batik fabrics.
J
Jelly Roll
A bundle of 2½" fabric strips. Named after a dessert. Purchased like a dessert.
Join-As-You-Go
A quilting technique where blocks are quilted individually and joined later.
K
Kona Cotton
A popular solid quilting cotton produced by Robert Kaufman.
L
Layer Cake
A bundle of 10" squares. Larger than a charm pack and equally difficult to resist.
Longarm Quilting
Quilting performed on a specialized longarm machine.
Loft
The thickness of batting.
M
Mitered Corner
A folded corner creating a neat 45-degree angle.
Moda
A beloved quilting fabric manufacturer.
Mystery Quilt
A quilt pattern revealed in stages. Trust issues may develop.
N
Needle Turn Appliqué
A hand appliqué technique where seam allowances are turned under with the needle.
Notions
The collective term for sewing tools and supplies.
O
On Point
A quilt layout where blocks are set diagonally.
Orphan Block
A quilt block with no project to call home.
P
Patchwork
Sewing fabric pieces together to create a design.
Piecing
Joining fabric pieces together.
Prairie Points
Folded fabric triangles used as decorative edging.
Presser Foot
The attachment that holds fabric against the feed dogs.
QAYG
Quilt As You Go.
Q
Quarter-Inch Seam
The official seam allowance of quilting and the source of many beginner frustrations.
Quilt Sandwich
The quilt top, batting, and backing layered together.
Quilting Cotton
100% cotton fabric specifically manufactured for quilting.
Quilt Police
Imaginary people who supposedly inspect your quilts. They don't exist. Ignore them.
R
Raw Edge Appliqué
Appliqué where fabric edges remain exposed.
Rotary Cutter
A fabric-cutting tool capable of slicing through fabric and occasionally your confidence.
RST
Right Sides Together.
S
Sashing
Fabric strips separating quilt blocks.
Seam Ripper
The most-used sewing tool nobody wants to admit they use.
Selvage (Selvedge)
The tightly woven edge of fabric.
Sew Sampler
Fat Quarter Shop's monthly subscription box.
Stash
Your fabric collection.
Stiletto
A pointed tool used to guide fabric safely under the needle. Not footwear.
Stitch in the Ditch
See "Ditch Quilting."
Strip Piecing
Sewing strips together before cutting units.
T
Tension
The balance between upper and bobbin thread. A mysterious force understood by few.
Thimble
A finger protector used in hand sewing.
Topstitching
Visible decorative stitching on the top side of a project.
u
UFO
UnFinished Object.
Every quilter has one.
Most quilters have several.
Some quilters need a spreadsheet.
W
Walking Foot
A presser foot that helps evenly feed multiple layers.
WIP
Work In Progress.
A project currently being worked on.
Or sitting in a basket while you start something new.
Wonky
Intentionally imperfect. Occasionally used to describe things that were not intentional.
Y
Y-Seam
A seam intersection that forms a Y shape. Approach with caution.
Z
Zigzag Stitch
A sewing machine stitch used to finish edges and prevent fraying.
Sewing & Quilting Abbreviations
BOM
Block of the Month
A program in which quilt blocks or pattern sections are released monthly.
EPP
English Paper Piecing
A hand-sewing technique using paper templates to create precise shapes.
FMQ
Free Motion Quilting
A quilting method in which the quilter controls the movement of the fabric rather than relying on the machine's feed dogs.
FQ
Fat Quarter
A fabric cut measuring approximately 18" x 21".
F8
Fat Eighth
A fabric cut measuring approximately 9" x 21".
HST
Half-Square Triangle
A square made from two right triangles of contrasting fabrics.
QAL
Quilt Along
A project where multiple quilters work on the same pattern together over a period of time.
QAYG
Quilt As You Go
A quilting method in which sections are quilted individually before being joined together.
QST
Quarter-Square Triangle
A square unit composed of four triangles.
RST
Right Sides Together
A sewing instruction indicating the finished sides of the fabric should face each other before stitching.
SA
Seam Allowance
The distance between the stitching line and the edge of the fabric.
SID
Stitch in the Ditch
A quilting technique where stitches are sewn directly in the seam line.
UFO
UnFinished Object
A project that has not yet been completed.
WIP
Work In Progress
A project currently being worked on.
WOF
Width of Fabric
The measurement across fabric from selvage to selvage.
WOW
White on White
A white fabric featuring a subtle white print.
Sewing Machine Anatomy
Throat Space
The distance between the needle and the body of the sewing machine. Larger throat spaces make quilting large projects easier.
Feed Dogs
The metal teeth beneath the presser foot that move fabric through the machine.
Presser Foot
The attachment that holds fabric against the feed dogs while sewing.
Needle Plate
The metal plate beneath the needle that supports the fabric while sewing.
Bobbin
The small spool that supplies the lower thread.
A tiny spool that somehow has a remarkable effect on your mood.
Bobbin Case
The component that holds the bobbin in place.
Hand Wheel
The wheel on the side of the machine used to manually raise and lower the needle.
Tension
The balance between upper and lower thread that creates proper stitches.
Take-Up Lever
The machine component that controls thread movement during stitch formation.
Free Arm
A narrow section of the machine used for sewing sleeves, cuffs, and other tubular items.
Common Presser Feet
Quarter-Inch Foot
A presser foot designed to help maintain accurate quarter-inch seams.
Walking Foot
A foot that helps evenly feed multiple layers of fabric.
Open-Toe Foot
A foot with an open front that improves visibility while sewing.
Free Motion Foot
A foot used for free-motion quilting.
Zipper Foot
A foot designed for sewing close to zippers and piping.
Sewing Machine Needles
Universal Needle
A general-purpose machine needle suitable for many woven fabrics.
Quilting Needle
A machine needle specifically designed for quilting through multiple layers.
Microtex Needle
A very sharp needle ideal for precise piecing and tightly woven fabrics.
Topstitch Needle
A needle with a larger eye designed for heavier threads.
Embroidery Needle
A needle designed for decorative machine embroidery.
Jeans/Denim Needle
A strong needle designed for heavy fabrics.
Ballpoint Needle
A needle designed for knit fabrics.
Stretch Needle
A needle designed for highly elastic fabrics.
Leather Needle
A specialty needle designed for sewing leather.
Twin Needle
Two needles mounted on a single shaft used for decorative stitching.
Milliner's Needle
A long hand-sewing needle commonly used for hand appliqué, English Paper Piecing, and decorative stitching.
Thread Guide
Thread Weights
The lower the number, the thicker the thread.
12 Weight
Heavy decorative thread.
28 Weight
Decorative quilting thread.
40 Weight
Common machine quilting thread.
50 Weight
One of the most popular thread weights for piecing and quilting.
60 Weight
Fine thread often used for detailed piecing.
80 Weight
Very fine thread used for appliqué and specialty techniques.
Thread Types
Cotton Thread
Made entirely from cotton fibers and commonly used for piecing and quilting.
Polyester Thread
Strong, durable, and low lint.
Cotton-Wrapped Polyester
Polyester core with a cotton outer layer.
Monofilament Thread
Nearly invisible thread often used for appliqué.
Major Thread Manufacturers
Aurifil
A premium thread manufacturer known for high-quality cotton thread.
Many quilters consider Aurifil 50 wt thread the standard for piecing.
Superior Threads
Known for specialty quilting threads including MasterPiece, So Fine!, Bottom Line, and King Tut.
WonderFil
Offers a wide range of specialty threads in many weights and fiber types.
Gutermann
A popular manufacturer of all-purpose sewing thread.
Mettler
Known for quality cotton and polyester sewing threads.
Coats & Clark
One of the most widely available thread brands.
Fabric Terms
Grainline
The direction of threads running lengthwise through fabric.
Crossgrain
The direction running perpendicular to the grainline.
Bias
Fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain.
Selvage
The tightly woven edge of fabric, contains a great deal of information about the fabric.
Directional Print
A fabric print that has a definite top and bottom orientation.
Tone-on-Tone
A fabric featuring subtle variations of the same color.
Wideback
Extra-wide fabric designed for quilt backing.
Batik
Fabric created using a wax-resist dyeing process.
Batting Terms
Batting
The middle layer of a quilt that provides warmth and softness.
Loft
The thickness of batting.
Scrim
A lightweight stabilizing layer found in some batting products.
Cotton Batting
Batting made primarily from cotton fibers.
Polyester Batting
Batting made from polyester fibers.
Wool Batting
Batting made from wool fibers and known for excellent stitch definition.
Bamboo Batting
Batting made from bamboo fibers.
Blend Batting
Batting made from a combination of fiber types.
Manufacturers & Brands
Moda Fabrics
One of the most recognized names in quilting, known for designer fabric collections, precuts, batting, and notions.
Robert Kaufman Fabrics
Manufacturer of quilting fabrics including the popular Kona Cotton solids.
Kona Cotton
A line of premium solid fabrics produced by Robert Kaufman.
Andover Fabrics
Known for high-quality quilting cottons and designer collections.
Riley Blake Designs
A fabric manufacturer known for colorful prints and designer collaborations.
Northcott Fabrics
Known for premium quilting fabrics and the Stonehenge collections.
Stonehenge
A Northcott fabric line known for its textured appearance.
FreeSpirit Fabrics
Known for bold colors and artistic designs.
Benartex
A manufacturer offering a wide variety of traditional and contemporary quilting fabrics.
Hoffman California Fabrics
Known for vibrant prints and batik collections.
Island Batik
A manufacturer specializing in batik fabrics.
Art Gallery Fabrics (AGF)
Known for premium fabrics with a soft hand and modern aesthetic.
Marcus Fabrics
Known for reproduction fabrics inspired by historical quilt styles.
Wilmington Prints
Known for coordinated collections, quilt kits, and traditional quilting fabrics.